If you’ve ever found yourself in a West Virginia bakery, gas station, or local restaurant, chances are you’ve crossed paths with the pepperoni roll. Now that we’re spending more time in West Virginia, Mr. Nacho picks up a pepperoni roll everywhere he sees them (i.e., every trip to West Virginia). They really are everywhere! But where did these come from and why are they so popular? Keep reading to dig into the history of how this simple combo of bread and pepperoni became a staple of the Mountain State.
What is a pepperoni roll?
A pepperoni roll is a soft bread roll filled with pepperoni (often in pepperoni stick or slice form) that’s baked to create a portable snack. The pepperoni releases its fats and oils as it bakes, infusing the bread with flavor. This snack doesn’t require refrigeration and is often meant to be eaten unheated or slightly warmed (side note: Mr. Nacho and I heat ours up to more than slightly warmed!)
The original rolls contained just a single stick of pepperoni in dough, but there are many more variations today using sliced pepperoni, cheese, or other spices. The ones that I have had, typically have cheese in them.
The origins and commercialization of the pepperoni roll
The pepperoni roll got its start in the early 20th century in the small coal towns of north-central West Virginia. Mining was one of the main industries at the time, and miners needed a convenient and easy-to-carry lunch option. Working hundreds of feet underground, going back up to the surface to eat wasn’t easy (or even possible), so they needed something that could be eaten cold, stored easily, and last through long shifts.
It was Giuseppe Argiro, an Italian immigrant who opened a bakery in 1927, who started selling pepperoni rolls in Fairmont, West Virginia. Many Italian immigrants like him had come to West Virginia to work in the mines. By encasing sticks of pepperoni in a soft roll, Argiro created a meal that was easy to hold and didn’t spoil. Note though that it’s possible that Argiro only commercialized the pepperoni roll, as the wives of coal miners may already have been creating lunches like these in their homes. His bakery Country Club Bakery still exists today and you can still purchase pepperoni rolls from here (I’ve read that they may not be considered the “best,” but they still use pepperoni sticks).
Pepperoni rolls as a local staple
Over time, the pepperoni roll spread beyond coal miners’ lunches and started popping up in local bakeries, schools, and gas stations. It became a quick, affordable meal for even non-coal miners, and then ultimately became a staple of West Virginia. It seems that this roll offers native West Virginians a sense of nostalgia, connecting them to a shared experience and sense of place.
A taste of tradition
The next time you bite into a pepperoni roll, think about the people who created it and the role it played in West Virginia’s history. It’s become a point of pride and a reminder of immigrant contributions to the region’s industries and communities. Yes it’s a snack, but it’s also tradition. And if you haven’t tried one yet, maybe it’s time for a road trip to the Mountain State!
