I found an old post from a 2017 blog about my trip to Panama and Colombia that year and thought it would be worth resurfacing onto this blog. Dusting off this old entry (with a few edits) so I can share where I went. The plan was to start in Panama, then meet my friend Lindsay for the rest of the trip to see the crazy tall trees in Colombia, and then a 5-day hike to the Lost City, which is an archaeological site of an ancient city in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta of Colombia. You hike through the jungle, through mountains, and river crossings to get there. That only happened for one of us 🙂
I’ve been to Colombia at least 4 times. I kept going back because there is SO much beauty and diverse landscapes there. The people are welcoming and so very amazing, too. Each time I went to visit, I would meet people who would rattle off names of all these other areas of Colombia that I needed to visit. It was hard to travel to other Latin American countries because I always wanted to go back to Colombia!
Traveling through Panama and Colombia
In 2017 I traveled to Panama and Colombia. I started first in Panama by myself and later met up with Lindsay for most of the Colombia trip. Panama was cool but Colombia was unbelievable (many of you know, this is my second time traveling there this year). I spent a few days in Panama and about 12 days in Colombia.
- 3 nights: Panama City
- 1 night: San Blas Island
- 1 night: Panama City
- 3 nights: Filandia / Salento
- 1 night: Santa Marta
- 4 nights either Lost City Trek OR 1 night Riohacha / 2 nights La Guajira / 1 night Minca)
- 1 night: Santa Marta
Panama and the San Blas Islands
In Panama I explored Casco Viejo (the historic district of Panama City), explored various shops and streets, got ceviche at Mercado Publico del Marisco (a popular seafood market), and explored the Cinta Costera (a coastal beltway open only to pedestrians/bikes on certain days).
After a few days, I took a boat to stay the night at what was an (almost private) small indigenous Island in San Blas at Ogob Nega, Chichime Islands. That was amazing. I would highly recommend it. At times I felt like I had the whole Island to myself. It was super basic and rugged (with shared bathrooms), but the privacy and solitude was really nice. You could walk the entire island in under an hour. Meals are included and they catch fresh fish/lobsters to cook and serve.
Overall, Panama was fine. Nothing like Colombia!!! If anyone wants to do a Panama/Colombia trip, there are boats that go from San Blas to Colombia that you can take. If I had known that I may have done that instead of going back to Panama City and taking a flight.
On to Colombia!
Filandia (Day 1 Colombia)
A Colombian friend connected me with his friends in Colombia one of whom had an uncle named Mario that was willing to be our driver while we were in the Salento area. After my flight in, before Lindsay got there, Mario took me to explore the Filandia region (which many say is like Salento, but with fewer tourists). It was a dreary day, but adorable. The buildings are colorful.
He walked me around town and then took me to the Mirador lookout point overlooking Quindio and it was GORGEOUS. I also saw his cousin’s coffee warehouse where the bathroom lock broke and they spent 45 min trying to get me out.
Mario also took me to a yum lunch spot and introduced me to trucha con patacon (trout with flattened, fried plantains) and it was sooo yum!!
Floating down el Rio Viejo in Quimbaya (Day 1 Colombia)
We picked up Lindsay from the airport. Before heading to Salento, we were off to first float down the Rio Viejo on bamboo rafts!!!
There are a few sites online you can book to do this, but once you get into Quimbaya there are many companies that will sell this trip, so you really don’t need a reservation in advance. You can show up and you will have many to choose from.
From whichever outfitter you choose, from the storefront, you hop into a “Willy” (a Willy Jeep) and head down to the river. This was a fantastic first day. When you first get onto the raft, they offer you tintos (Colombian coffee usually 4 oz, sweetened with panela sugar). You do a lazy float down the river, relax, jump in the river, stop to hike to a small waterfall (for a very small fee), and lunch which for us was chicken and rice cooked in banana leaves. Muy rico!!! The company we went with was great.
After a fun day of lazy rafting, Mario drove Lindsay and I to Salento to stay the night.
Salento and Valle de Cocora (3 nights)
After a night in Salento, we were ready to see the trees in the Valle de Cocora (Cocora Valley). Valle de Cocora is one of the main reasons for our trip, and is one of the most AMAZING sights I have ever seen. These tall trees are like Dr. Seuss trees. They are wax palms that grow up to 197 feet in height.
To get to the valley, you hop on a Willy from the center of Salento that will take you there. There are a few hikes you can do when you get there (very muddy, and can take a few hours). Lindsay and I wanted to do the shorter hike since we had a 5-day hike planned for later during our trip… but we missed a turn and ended up hiking an hour or two into the longer hike. Whoops. We were tired.
After another night in Salento where we explored the various shops, restaurants (and also a local coffee tour in Quindio), we then traveled to a hostel in Santa Marta (the Magdalena region). We were set to depart on our Lost City Trek the next day.
I was *supposed* to do a 4-5 day hike with her through the coastal jungle of Colombia to an archaeological site (Trek to la Ciudad Perdida or Lost City Trek) but I ended up backing out. Why? Because I was SO HOT and being absolutely devoured by mosquitoes. Did I also mention I hate hiking? Why I signed us up for this trek, I am not sure. Lindsay decided to go on her own while I stayed back and I forfeited my money.
When Lindsay left for the trek, I feverishly Googled places in the area that I could see for 5 days while she was away. I found two places– Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas- both in the northern most tip of Colombia. Difficult to get to, these are remote desert villages in the Guajira region of Colombia. When I got back from the Guajira region, I also visited a town called Minca in the mountains. These experiences + the Valle de Cocora made the trip to Colombia so rewarding and incredible for so many reasons.
La Guajira: Punta Gallinas & Cabo de la Vela
Punta Gallinas and Cabo de la Vela are part of the La Guajira desert region where the desert means the water. This trip was one of the most unique and beautiful areas I have ever been. These two locations were about 10 hours away from where we were staying in Rodadero/Santa Marta and have little to no running water. There is no “Google Mapping” how to get there as there are no roads in the desert. You spend the night in hammocks and take in all the gorgeous views!
Two tours to La Guajira from our hostel in Santa Marta were sold out so the only way to get there would be on my own. I took a bus to a town called Riohacha to stay in a hostel and hoped I could figure out how to get to this place. This is the last real town before Cabo de la Vela. I met other travelers who were also interested and we decided to go together.
We ordered a colectivo (basically a shared car) to a town called Uribia where we then hopped in a 4×4 jeep into the desert. These jeeps are the lifeline to the Guajira region, often carrying water and other goods to this remote location. Locals, merchants, tourists, really anyone can grab a ride in the jeep. It was lucky there was a group of 5 of us going to the same place, because the jeeps left once full. It is best to bring your own water for the trip as well.
You’re driving on what look like normal roads, and then you come to more desert-looking areas with tumble weed, desert bushes, whatever plant life is out there.. and then all of a sudden BAM. It is just ENDLESS desert and you wonder how anyone knows which direction to drive. There are no landmarks or mountains that I was able to see. We saw one visitor who took his motorcycle through this trip and he had to follow cars/buses because there was no way he’d be able to find his way on his own in this flat desert and heat. The barren landscape was still so beautiful and spectacular though. I wish I had taken a video.
Cabo de la Vela
The jeep drops you off in Cabo de la Vela in front of a shoddy building with hammocks and dirty mattresses. I think they assume that as tourists, you will just lodge there. However it was so dingy and turns out there are a ton of places to find hammocks to sleep in – not just this one. I was very lucky to have met these French girls who seemed to know much better what they were doing, and had heard of a place in the area owned by a German guy instead. We sought out to find that location.
We found our lodging for the night, and explored the area. You can walk around the area and purchase beautiful bags and bracelets made by the Wayuu people that live in the Guajira region (the colorful Colombian bags you often see that are a big part of Colombian identity).
Then you can negotiate with some moto-bikes to take you around to the various viewing points around La Guajira. The views are incredible especially at sunset.
The next day our original driver took us to Punta Gallinas, which is another area of La Guajira, also with sand dunes and ocean. In Punta Gallinas there are only two camps to sleep at (also in hammocks). You arrive and they feed you, you pick a hammock and they then take you in a van to go to explore. It didn’t seem like there was as much to see so the French girls and I decided not to stay the night, though we heard that you can spend a few nights here and there are places to explore much further out. I was on a time crunch though because Lindsay would be back from the trek soon and I still wanted to see the town of Minca. Before leaving one of the locals did steal my sunblock out of the side pocket of my backpack while there. That’s ok they likely need it more than I do.
This landscapes in La Guajira were some of the most beautiful landscapes I’ve ever seen and I wished I would never forget it. Pictures don’t do it justice.
Minca mountain views
Once we left La Guajira, I spent the night in that same hostel in Riohacha again and then took the bus back towards Santa Marta the next morning so I could see Minca. I booked a hostel with great reviews and beautiful photos before I left. They apparently had the largest hammock in the world. The hostel is named Casa Elemento (but doesn’t look to be in business anymore now in 2024).
To get to the truly spectacular views in Minca, you ask around and hire a moto taxi from the center of Minca. They take you on a 45-min steep climb up the mountain through lush greenery, rivers and mud. The driver many times got stuck in mud and he has to wade through it with you on the back of his moto taxi. These poor drivers. But in any case, it was an unbelievable trip up there and the views were even more spectacular. I can’t describe it. These photos don’t do it justice.
I rented a private room with a mosquito net. I didn’t get to explore even all of the Casa Elemento Hostel for its views and huge hammocks over rivers. I didn’t find out about these until the next morning. There are many other viewing points on this mountain you can also visit, but I unfortunately did not have enough time to explore. At the hostel there was no wifi- only drinks and food. That meant everyone got to know each other, watched the sunset, drank, and partied.
Scuba Diving in Taganga
After my solo night in Minca, Lindsay and I were finally reunited at our hostel in Santa Marta! I told her all about my trip and she told me all the entertaining stories of her trek. The next day we planned a scuba diving trip in Taganga. Taganga is a fishing village close to Santa Marta) and Parque Tayrona.
Scuba diving was a whole other experience in itself. Neither of us had been before. After a brief training, we took a boat out to the waters of Parque Tayrona to try our scuba skills. I was so uncomfortable breathing underwater and declared that I would sit out the rest of the day. The instructor, however was really patient and persistent and worked 1:1 with me in the water. I ended up scuba diving for 30 min!!!
After our scuba adventure we headed back to a fancy schmancy hotel (so worth it after days of not showering). We took hot showers, relaxed, and then headed out for dinner and drinks overlooking the Rodadero beach at sunset.
Night in Bogota
Lindsay and I parted ways, and I stayed in Bogota the night before flying back out to the states. The neighborhood I stayed in was Candelaria, which is very touristy. I had an early morning flight and was going to cash out of the hostel before leaving. In the morning I went down to the desk to pay for the hostel. The front desk person informed me that the hostel doesn’t take credit card so I turned to leave in search of an ATM. He stopped me and said, “leave your backpack”. I was so naive and didn’t think anything of it, but left my backpack. This was at 4:30 in the morning.
I wandered around looking for an ATM. I saw one ATM inside a building but the person at the front desk refused to open the door. Then police appeared and stopped me to ask what I was doing out by myself. They said it was very dangerous. They pointed at a group of kids walking out and about, saying they were ladrones (thieves), and then escorted me via moto-bike with one of them to find a working ATM. None seemed to work as my debit card had no chip and certain ATMs only worked with cards with chips. I also learned that kids 18 and under who commit murder only get one year in jail! In any case, all is well. I showed back up at the hostel with the policeman (the person at the front desk thought I had been robbed), I paid the hostel what I could and they said they would email me for the remaining balance (which they never did). I then took an Uber to the airport (thank God for Uber and international data!)
All in all, this was one of the most memorable trips of my life and I hope I have many more like this. Lindsay and I would both go back to Colombia. It is hard to capture the color and vibrancy of this country and its people, and I hope that everyone will one day get to experience it first hand.
This is what I think made Colombia as a trip overall so memorable:
- The journey of getting there. It was spontaneous and nerve-wracking. When I decided not to go on the hike, it was like flying by the seat of my pants by deciding to visit these sites last minute. I was on my phone on GoogleMaps the night before, seeing what were the closest sites that I could visit in the next 4-5 days. It was extremely gratifying to have gotten to these places without an organized tour but simply talking to locals and other backpackers that had heard of how to get there
- Exploring these areas felt relatively untouched so it was like we were exploring Colombia for its true personality and essence (vs. feeling it being more of a “tourist trap”). Sure there are tourists, but no explicit signs to keep us on the path, extreme touristy sales, nor “easy” ways to get there. No one spoke much English. This made it so refreshing. As an example, in the Cocora Valley we missed the entrance to the “short hike” and ended up doing 1/3 of the longer more arduous hike. When we did find the “short” hike, we took what we thought would be a short-cut and ended up getting lost with no one to call for help. These areas are still so relatively new to tourism that there aren’t a ton of safeguards to keep tourists on the right path. You can really get lost and go anywhere…
- The views. This might have been the first time where views took my breath away. I’ve never looked at so many sights wide-eyed and wished and hoped that I’d remember those views forever. It made me wonder how many other places in the world I am missing out on that could also make me feel this way. I’ve definitely gotten the travel bug.
This trip has to be the most rewarding and beautiful trip I’ve taken thus far and I’m so glad I got to experience part of it with Lindsay. Thank goodness for our work bringing us together because she has become one of my closest friends (and now travel companions). And thank goodness for beautiful sites in this world like those we’ve seen in Colombia (and Panama!). I can’t wait to keep exploring.
Original Itinerary with Notes
Here is our original itinerary with original notes (before I backed out of the Lost City Trek). REMINDER that these notes are from 2017, so some of this information may have varied slightly
PANAMA
- Fri arrive Panama City –
- Magnolia Inn; Casco Viejo
- Sat – Mercado del Marisco – restaurants with fresh fish
- Sun – Parque Recreativo Omar, Casco Viejo (Los Del Patio – art, café, live music, Diablo Rosso art space, Avenida Central), walk on Cinta Costera
- Mon – San Blas beach
- Chichime beach Island – “Ogob Nega” Cabins on Guna Yala
- Always have your Passport with you and not in your bag as there are some check-point on the way.
The 4Ă—4 transportation will stop on the supermarket but at in case it does not, make sure to have at least a gallon of water with you and others small snacks - Towel, swimming and snorkeling equipment
- Rain coat for the boat ride
- Ziploc or any hermetic bags to put your valuable items in a safe place during the boat ride as everything can get wet
- Toilet paper
- Sun block
- Mosquito repellent (mosquitoes are not much present on the island but at the port)
- Always have your Passport with you and not in your bag as there are some check-point on the way.
- Chichime beach Island – “Ogob Nega” Cabins on Guna Yala
- Tues – More exploration, Geisha coffee, sunset from Panaviera
COLOMBIA
SALENTO
- Wed – Fly to Armenia to stay in Salento
- Thurs – float down Rio la Vieja (9-9:30 am – 3:30 pm) and explore Salento
- Walkers House Hostel, Salento (Carrera 8 # 8 – 47, Salento, Colombia)
- Fri
- Valle de Cocora (consider not hiking… lots of hiking later) – depart from the square at 7:30 am, and coffee tour if not done the day prior
- Finca el Ocaso Cafe tour – official website
- DURATION: 1:30 minutes
- BOOKING: It is not necessary, just be 15 minutes earlier
SANTA MARTA/RODADERO
- Sat – fly to Santa Marta
- Sun – Trek to La Ciudad Perdida! Expotur travel company. (Reminder… in actuality only Lindsay did this and I did La Guajira and Minca instead!)
- Mon: Trek Day 2
- Tues: Trek Day 3
- Wed: Trek Day 4
- Thurs: Return from trek and stay in same hostel
- Calle 11 Hostel Santa Marta Rodadero, Calle 11 #4-120, Rodadero, Santa Marta
PARQUE TAYRONA (NOTE: We did not end up sleeping in hammocks in Parque Tayrona but did scuba diving launching from Taganga, and stayed at a nice hotel instead)
- Fri: Parque Tayrona
- Cabo de San Juan de guia beach
- Need to call and book hammocks
- Sat: Leave Parque Tayrona and fly to Bogota
See another Colombia Itinerary for JardĂn, MedellĂn, Guatape, and Caño Cristales (the “River of Five Colors”)
