After Mr. Nacho and I got engaged, we wanted to take our engagement photos somewhere unique. We decided on Marfa, Texas as our destination. And since Marfa is already on the way to Big Bend National Park, we decided to tack on a trip to Big Bend as well.
Our trip included stops at White Sands National Park, Marfa, Big Bend Ranch State Park, Terlingua, and Big Bend National Park.
I love exploring unique, lesser known locations, so Marfa as a location was high on my list of places to visit. Marfa is a small desert town in West Texas, and is famous for its quirky art scene, minimalist installations, and charming, slow-paced vibe. It was the perfect spot for one-of-a-kind engagement photos.
Big Bend National Park on the other hand offers rugged mountains and sweeping desert landscapes. The park’s vastness and solitude gave us the chance to immerse ourselves in nature and its stunning views. Its remoteness makes it one of the least visited national parks (just over 300,000 visitors per year).
We luckily found a photographer for our wedding who was willing to travel to Marfa for our engagement photos. We would spend a half day with her in Marfa to take our photos before exploring more of Big Bend National Park.
Arriving into Texas
Our trip was in February – which I really liked as the time to go because we didn’t have to deal with the Texas summer heat. It was warm in the sun during the day, but the nights were cold.
We flew into El Paso International Airport in the afternoon and picked up our rental car. We had plans that day to visit White Sands National Park in southern New Mexico because it’s only about 1.5 hours away from El Paso. We would explore White Sands for sunset and stay the night in El Paso and head to Marfa the next day.
White Sands National Park
Located in southern New Mexico, White Sands National Park is like stepping onto another planet. It’s home to the largest gypsum sand dune field in the world. Endless white dunes stretch as far as the eye can see, and creates a surreal landscape like nothing we’d ever experienced.
White Sands can get hot during the day, especially with the sun’s reflection off the white sand. We wanted to go for sunset, so we dressed in layers, knowing that it would get quite cold as the sun went down.
There’s a vehicle entrance fee per vehicle but you can also use your National Parks pass, which is what we used. You can do a day trip, or camp out there.
There are a handful of hiking trails available, but we chose to do the Alkali Flat Trail and watch the sunset. It’s a 5-mile loop (one of the longest trails in the park) that brings you further out into the park than any other trail, which means you’ll encounter taller dunes and fewer footprints.
We decided to start on this trail, but we didn’t do it all. We went in far enough to find a spot we liked to watch the sunset and returned the same way. There were only 2 others walking around in the park, but they were really, really far away! It was also winter and during the COVID lockdown so that could have contributed to reduced crowds.
If you didn’t want to hike a trail, you could also pick a spot along Dunes Drive (near the picnic areas) and hike out to a dune close by to view the sunset without hiking a trail. This was such a gorgeous and unique experience that we’d highly recommend seeing this place if you’re headed to west Texas.
Beware that if you go while the sun is still out, you may encounter extreme heat. Bring water with you and do not stray off the trail. Make sure you can always see a trail marker so you don’t get lost. It is very easy to get turned around and lose your way, and that can turn into a very dangerous situation.
What we brought with us to White Sands National Park
- Lots of water
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- Warm clothes (scarves, gloves, socks) in case you are there during winter (hot when the sun is out and extremely cold at night)
- Shoes to change into if easier to hike sand with Teva sandals or something similar
- Camera / tripod
- A blanket to sit out with hot drinks to sip on as the sun went down
Some additional notes from our planning:
- Park has closing hours that are based on sunset – check the NPS website for the latest
- Check for Missile testing closure dates
- Drive further back to the picnic areas to get to less crowded dunes (the trailhead for the Alkali Flat Trail is at the end of the Dunes Drive)
- If you choose to do a ranger-guided sunset stroll, drive 5 miles from the Visitor Center along Dunes Drive. There is a large parking area specifically for the ranger program just after the paved road ends.
Marfa Day 1
The next morning after a night in El Paso, we started our trek to Marfa. The plan was to spend a few days in Marfa (including taking our engagement photos) before heading to Big Bend.
There were a few stops we wanted to see on our way to Marfa.
Prada Marfa
The first stop was the iconic Prada Marfa. It’s a curious site in the middle of nowhere. Created in 2005 by artists Elmgreen & Dragset, it’s not a functioning Prada store but a permanent art installation on U.S. Highway 90, 30 miles northwest of Marfa. It’s a pristine storefront, complete with the Prada logo and display windows showcasing real Prada shoes and handbags donated by Miuccia Prada herself. The catch is, the doors don’t open, and it’s surrounded by miles of desert. Another fun fact is that to deter thieves, all of the shoes are left shoes and the bags have the bottoms cut out.
The installation is a statement designed to critique consumerism and the clash between high-end luxury and rural life. If you ever find yourself in West Texas, it’s a must-see.
James Dean / Elizabeth Taylor Murals
Our next stop was the James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor murals. This installation is a tribute to two of Hollywood’s most iconic stars. Created by renowned artist John Cerney in 2018, these large-scale works pay homage to the town’s connection to the legendary film Giant, which was filmed in the area in the 1950s.
James Dean and Elizabeth Taylor are shown in larger-than-life detail, set against the open skies and rugged West Texas landscape. If you’re headed to Marfa, it may be worth reading up on and watching the film Giant before your trip!
Getting settled in Marfa
We got situated in our Airbnb which was walkable to downtown and grabbed some pizza from Para Llevar for dinner (totally worth it!!).
Marfa Day 2
This was our engagement photo shoot day. We got took our photos in and around the city of Marfa, and then headed to Davis State Park for more photos (note: there is an entrance fee), and then finally to Prada Marfa at sunset for photos. Davis State Park and Prada Marfa are in opposite directions, but were able to still make it work.
After we finished up our engagement shoot, that night we decided to make hot cocoa to bring with us to see the Marfa Lights.
Marfa Mystery Lights
The Marfa Lights is an unexplained phenomena in West Texas. These strange orbs of light that can glow in shades of white, yellow, or red, have puzzled locals and visitors for decades. They appear at night, and move in ways that are hard to explain. They’re often described as dancing, merging, or darting across the horizon in ways that defy logic. At first they looked like car lights, but they would flash intermittently and then also move around in a non-carlike motion.
No one knows for sure what causes them. Some think it’s atmospheric conditions or reflections from car headlights, while others believe it’s unusual or paranormal. The Marfa Lights Viewing Area is where you can go to see them for yourself and decide what you think. We went around 7-8 pm to see what these lights were all about.
The best place to see them is in the dedicated Marfa Lights Viewing Area, which is 9 miles east of Marfa on U.S. 90, towards Alpine. There is a platform built just to watch these lights. There is parking, covered shelter, and bathrooms available.
Note that there are some nights where the lights are not visible and there is no way to predict when or where the lights will appear. We were fortunate enough that night to be able to see them.
Marfa Day 3
We continued to explore Marfa our remaining days. Below is a list of places we researched or visited.
Food
- Marfa Para Llevar – They have incredible pizzas!!! Highly, highly recommend
- Marfa Burrito: A Marfa staple and Matthew McConaughey’s favorite spot. Cash only. Closed on Sundays. Worth it.
- Aster Marfa for breakfast/lunch
- The Marfa Store – Coffee and baked goods located inside The Lumberyard, around the corner from The Get Go
Shopping:
- Se Vende (a 24/7 vending machine with interesting stuff)
- Marfa Brands Soap Company
- The Get Go (cool little grocery store)
- Ranch Candy – for things you do and do not need
- Freda: a lifestyle store in downtown Marfa. They feature some very creative jewelry, art, clothing and accessories.
- Garza Marfa – furniture and textiles
- Hotel Paisano Gift Shops – If you’re looking for souvenirs
- Big Bend Coffee Roasters (can also purchase coffee from The Get Go Grocery)
Art galleries
- Chinati Foundation
- Ballroom Marfa
- Judd Foundation
Where to stay (or visit!) in Marfa
- Airbnbs
- Hotel Paisano: Built in 1930, it became famous in the 1950s as the headquarters for the cast and crew of Giant, the movie starring Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean, and Rock Hudson. Today, the hotel features Spanish-style architecture, a courtyard, and displays of photos and memorabilia from Giant. Even if you’re not staying there, you can stop by for a meal or drink at Jett’s Grill, or check out their gift shop.
- El Cosmico: a unique place to stay in Marfa. This 21-acre property has vintage trailers, yurts, tepees, and safari tents. There are hammocks for stargazing, fire pits, and even outdoor bathtubs.
Instagrammable locations (if you’re into that kinda thing!)
- You’ll be fine wall: On the corner at E Texas St. at Highland St.
- Marfa doorway: On the corner of Highland St. at E. Lincoln St.
- Greetings from Marfa Texas Postcard Mural: this used to be by Frama Coffee at 120 N Austin St which looks like it has since closed in 2023 so I’m not sure if the mural is still there
Big Bend Ranch State Park
We headed towards Big Bend the next morning. Make sure your maps are downloaded for navigation as there is little to no service on the way out to Big Bend.
We started on our scenic drive and made a stop a quick hike at Big Bend Ranch State Park. This park is much lesser known than its neighboring national park, but it spans over 300,000 acres, and is the largest state park in Texas.
There is a small day-use fee, and National Parks passes aren’t accepted here.
We hiked the Closed Canyon Trail, which is around 1.4 miles (out and back) through a winding canyon with colorful rock walls. Typing “Closed Canyon” into Google Maps will take you to the trailhead.
After our hike, we drove another 2-some hours towards Lajitas. The drive on FM-170 towards Lajitas is one of the most beautiful and scenic highways in the US. The route stretches for about 50 miles, winding along the Rio Grande and offering stunning views of the desert, mountains, and the river.
We finally made it to the town of Terlingua, where we would be staying the next few days.
Terlingua as our jumping off point for Big Bend National Park
Terlingua is a quirky, off-the-grid desert town in West Texas that serves as the perfect base for exploring Big Bend National Park. It was once a thriving mining town, and now is a mix of ghost town remnants, art spaces, and accommodations for visitors who wish to explore Big Bend. We stayed in a remote Airbnb in the Terlingua desert (there were no road signs! Just paths in the desert). Our final night was spent in a glamping bubble with an outdoor hot tub at Basecamp Terlingua.
Food spots
- Lunch: Espresso y Poco Mas
- Rio Bravo was pretty good Mexican
- Lunch: DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ (Wed-Sat 11-2p)
- Long Draw pizza – this was ok pizza
- Dinner/show: Starlight Theater
- Cottonwood General Store in Terlingua for any added groceries
Big Bend National Park (4 days)
Big Bend National Park covers over 800,000 acres, and is one of the largest and most remote parks in the U.S. Visitors come for the diverse wildlife, incredible stargazing opportunities, and rich geological and cultural history.
Our hikes
Santa Elena Canyon
This is towards the top of our list for places to see and it is a quick out and back hike. The Rio Grande cuts through massive limestone cliffs to create the stunning Santa Elena Canyon. We decided to explore at sunrise.
To get to Santa Elena Canyon you’d drive the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive (gorgeous!). Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive offers some of the best views in Big Bend National Park, with several stops to take in the scenery. Sotol Vista is a great spot for any view – including sunrise or sunset, and there is also the option for the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin (0.3 miles). You can look through “The Window,” which is a notch in the mountains that looks out onto the desert floor thousands of feet below.
The Santa Elena Canyon’s mouth is located near the parking lot.
This easy, 1.7-mile round-trip trail takes you close to the Rio Grande and the towering limestone walls of Santa Elena Canyon. The river forms the border between the U.S. and Mexico, and from the trailhead, Mexico is just steps away on the other side of the water.
The trail starts at the parking lot and descends to the river. If it’s warm enough, you can wade into the water or even cross it—just be aware of border regulations before heading to the other side. The most challenging part is a short series of switchbacks about 0.25 miles in, but after that, the trail levels out and follows the riverbank.
As you hike, you’ll see desert plants and the massive canyon walls rising on either side. On the Mexico side, the Rio Grande hugs the canyon wall, leaving no walking path. The trail ends where the canyon narrows, and the river takes over completely. At that point, you’ll turn back to retrace your steps.
Rio Grande Village Nature Trail
We would also recommend this quick hike with views from the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail. We did this at sunset, but I’m sure it’s gorgeous at sunrise as well. It is a short 0.75 miles round trip hike near the Rio Grande Village campground. You’ll park in the campground parking area.
The trail begins with a boardwalk through a lush wetland area, and then the trail climbs to a small ridge, providing panoramic views of the Rio Grande, the Mexican village of Boquillas, and the surrounding desert and mountains. Once we made it to the top, we found a seat on the rocks to take in the sunset. There were many others around us doing the same.
Lost Mine Trail
We would also highly recommend Lost Mine Trail. It’s a popular trail, so try to get there before sunrise to make sure you get a good parking spot.
At 4.8 miles round trip, it’s shorter than the South Rim or Emory Peak hikes (longer, more strenuous hikes) but still offers incredible views of Casa Grande, Juniper Canyon, and Pine Canyon. The trail ends after 2.4 miles with breathtaking vistas that rival some sections of the South Rim Trail.
Cattail Falls Trail
We got this recommendation from our Airbnb host. This hike was removed from official trail maps because it has been overused, but is still accessible to hike (which I guess makes it a hidden gem!). It’s a long walk from parking to the trailhead but worth it to hike up to the waterfall.
This 3-mile round-trip hike leads you through desert terrain and into a shaded canyon where a seasonal waterfall cascades down a rock face.
The trail isn’t officially marked, but it starts near the Sam Nail Ranch parking area. This trail is easy to moderate (for me), but keep in mind that the falls may not flow during dry seasons.
Exploring Boquillas Canyon entering Mexico
We unfortunately were not able to do this hike because it was closed during COVID, but wanted to still write about it. The Boquillas Canyon Trail (1.4 miles round trip) is located about an hour from Santa Elena Canyon. You can plan for lunch crossing into the border into Boquillas, Mexico, a colorful village across the Rio Grande.
To cross, visit the border patrol station with your passport (and bring cash). A rowboat ride across the river costs $5, and once on the other side, you’ll check in with Mexican immigration officials in Boquillas del Carmen, a small village with a rich mining history. Transportation into town includes walking (free), a donkey ride ($5 round trip), a horse ride ($8 round trip), or a car ride ($5 round trip).
When you return to the U.S., you’ll check back in with customs and fill out a short form, pay $2 per person, and receive two passport stamps. Plan to spend at least 2 hours round trip for the crossing and visit. Afterward, you can hike the nearby Boquillas Canyon Trail to wrap up your adventure.
Heading back home
We left Terlingua for El Paso to spent the night before flying back home the next morning. We had such a nice, relaxing time in West Texas, that we think back to these memories often!
Itinerary summary
Day 1: El Paso
- Arrive in El Paso International Airport
- Drive to White Sands National Park for sunset (1h 36m away) and explore the Alkalai Flat Trail
Day 2: Marfa
- Depart El Paso and head towards Marfa
- Make the following stops
- Prada Marfa (2h 18m), then another 30 min to Marfa
- James Dean / Elizabeth Taylor Murals (Location is Between Prada Marfa and the town of Marfa on US-90)
Day 3: Marfa
- Hair appointment in the morning, then Engagement session
- After the engagement session, make hot cocoa and go to see the Marfa Lights
Day 4: Marfa
- Explore Marfa shops and restaurants
Day 5: Big Bend Ranch State Park and Terlingua
- Depart Marfa for Terlingua
- Stop at Big Bend Ranch State Park on the way (1.5 hours from Marfa)
- Hike Closed Canyon – 1.8 miles
Day 6: Terlingua and Big Bend National Park
- Hike Santa Elena Canyon in the AM
Day 7: Terlingua and Big Bend National Park
- Lost Mine Trail in the AM
- Rio Grande River Nature Trail for sunset
Day 8: Terlingua and Big Bend National Park
- Cat Tail Falls
Day 9: Terlingua and Big Bend National Park
- Explore Terlingua and any other hikes
Day 10: El Paso
- Check out of Terlingua and head to El Paso. Stay the evening in El Paso
Day 11: Fly home
