After a week exploring Chile’s Atacama Desert, we crossed the border into Bolivia. This next part of our trip took us across the Uyuni Salt Flats and into landscapes that were just unreal. If you missed Part 1 in Chile, you can read it here, and it includes all sorts of notes on altitude preparation, etc. that are beneficial for travel to Bolivia as well.
The Uyuni Salt Flats (or Salar de Uyuni) is the world’s largest salt flat. It was once a prehistoric lakebed and is known for its “mirror effect” that reflects the sky and landscape around it. This mirror effect is what really drew me to wanting to travel here (and it is my second time now!)
Where to start and end the trip
You can start and end in Uyuni or San Pedro de Atacama, as there are agencies that accommodate both round trip and one-way tours. Starting and ending in the same location will likely add a night to your travel since you will spend the last day traveling back to the departure location. We chose to start in San Pedro de Atacama (better for acclimating to the altitude) and ending in Uyuni.
Tourist visa
Traveling to Bolivia from the United States requires a visa. I would recommend getting a visa ahead of time if possible, because that will save you time vs. getting it at the border.
What to see in Uyuni
Note that there is a dry season and a wet season which affects the “mirror effect”. Dry season typically runs from May – November. Wet season gives you the best chance of seeing the “mirror effect” on the salt flats. We traveled to Bolivia in the first week of May, where certain areas of the salt flat had already started to dry up, but there were still plenty of spots to see the “mirror effect”. It was also dry enough to travel to Incahuasi Island, which was incredible to see. Incahuasi Island is only open when the salt flats on the way there are dry. More on that below in Day 3.
We didn’t need to do any itinerary planning for the Bolivia leg of our trip, because the itinerary was already set by the tour agency we booked with. Really the only work we needed to do was to choose an agency. The itineraries across tour agencies for the Uyuni Salt Flats are almost all identical.
We went with the agency Cruz Andina and chose the most expensive package. Initially, we felt really good about it, but they made a few mistakes with our travel package and lodging. So for that reason I wouldn’t necessarily recommend them unless you choose the cheapest package. Regardless, the sites were incredible.
Preparing for the Bolivian border
Make sure you have enough bolivianos for the trip ahead of time and fill out the Formulario N° 250 Declaración ahead of time to get a QR code. Most likely your tour agency will tell you to do this.
Be sure to have:
- Your passport (and visa if you got it ahead of time)
- PDI slip (a slip you should have from entering Chile)
- QR code for this Declaration form you need to fill out online ahead of time. This form is called the “Formulario N° 250 Declaración” and you need to save/have the QR code to show Bolivian immigration from your phone
- Also make sure you have enough Bolivianos to pay the 150 bs per person tourist fee, as well as any other bolivianos needed to purchase gifts (and tip your tour guide!)
- Bottled water for the next few days (for drinking and brushing teeth)
If you’re traveling during the “dry season”, dress warmly as it will be cold!!!
If you plan to go to the thermal pools, make sure your towel and bathing suit is ready and accessible. Coming from San Pedro de Atacama, this will be one of your first stops.
From Chile to the Bolivian border
The tour agency picked us up from our hotel at 5:30 am to try and be one of the earliest vans to the border. The driver who picked us up was not the driver for the rest of our trip.
- 6:15 am: We arrived at the border, with only 3-4 vans ahead of us. We sat in the van for a while. The view of the mountains from here was gorgeous.
- 7:00 am: All the van drivers got out to set up breakfast and coffee for each group outside of the van. It was early May and it was COLD. Both in the van, but especially outside. WEAR ALL YOUR LAYERS if you’re there in the dry season.
- 8:00 am: Vans started moving again and then we waited again
- 8:30 am: We made our way into the immigration building where Chile immigration checked our passports and PDI slips. We then drove a little further to Bolivia immigration. There we collected our bags and the driver who picked us up from the hotel connected us with the tour guide for the rest of the trip. We then went to get our documents checked(passports, tourist visas, and QR code for Formulario 250). We weren’t asked about yellow vaccine proof or our itinerary or anything like that.
- After they checked for these things, they gave us a blue ticket that we took and handed to a police officer outside
- That police officer then directed us to a yellow building to pay 150 bolivianos per person, which also includes entry fee into Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa (the protected area that covers much of the Bolivia side near the Chilean border, e.g., to see flamingo lagoons, hot springs, geysers, etc.)
- If you want to use the bathroom, it will cost 5 bolivianos, or 1000 chilean pesos. After you pay, they will give you toilet paper to use. The bathrooms in Bolivia are quite different from the ones in Chile. There was soap, but the sinks didn’t have running water, and the toilets require you to scoop water from a large drum of water to pour into the cistern to be able to flush. There was hand sanitizer at the desk in the front.
From there, we were off on our tour!
Day 1 Bolivia
Laguna Blanca
After the border, Laguna Blanca was our very first stop. It’s part of Bolivia’s Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve and sits at about 4,350 meters above sea level. It’s about 5.6 km long, 3.5 km wide, and covers about 10.9 km². The lake gets its milky-white color from the high concentration of minerals (most often borax), suspended in the water.
When the water levels were much higher, around 13,240 years ago, Laguna Blanca merged with Laguna Verde.
This lake was really STUNNING and I could have spent much longer here. We took a bunch of photos before moving onto Laguna Verde.
Laguna Verde
The driver then took us to Laguna Verde, where this is more of the GREEN lake. However when we visited, it was not very green, and our guide said it’s because there was not much wind and wind is what makes the green color stand out more.
Dalí Desert (Desierto Dalí)
Then we were off to the Salvador Dalí Desert. It’s a desert with interesting-looking rock formations. There’s barely any vegetation, which makes the area feel especially remote and quiet.
It’s named after Salvador Dalí because the landscape looks like something you’d see in one of his paintings (he never actually visited the area). It was quite windy! There’s not much to do there, but it’s an interesting place to see in person, and our guide took some fun perspective pictures of us jumping into the air, and also with rocks.
Polques Hot Springs (Termas de Polques)
Our next stop was to the Polques Hot Springs (Termas de Polques). Once we got there, we decided we didn’t want to go through the hassle of putting on swim suits, putting our stuff away and getting out towels so we just hung out in the area and watched other people enjoy themselves while our guide set up lunch for us inside one of the buildings. To go into the hot springs it costs 5 bolivianos. Typically what would happen is you’d spend some time in the hot springs while the guide sets up lunch and once you dry off, it’s time to eat.
These are natural hot springs that are part of the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve. It’s just one pool, and there is a changing area and bathroom. To be able to go into the hot springs, it will cost some bolivianos but I can’t remember how much- maybe 10 bolivianos per person. Using the bathrooms also requires paying some bolivianos.
Sol de Mañana
After the hot springs, we headed to a geothermal field of hot bubbling mud and steaming fumaroles. Surface temperatures vary, with fumaroles reaching potentially up to 158°F (70°C).This area is also SUPER HIGH elevation. Around 4,900 meters or 16,076 feet above sea level. Sol de Mañana has been studied for geothermal energy potential since the 1970s. Research resumed in 2010, but development has been slow and limited to pilot projects.
There are no railings or warning signs here! Be very careful you don’t accidentally step in or fall into a bubbling geyser. Our guide mentioned there has been a death there in the past due to falling into one of the mud pools.
Laguna Colorada
Laguna Colorada was next. Our guide parked and let us trek across this path to see more of the lake. It was really pretty and we saw a ton of flamingos. It’s a shallow lake (just over a foot deep) but spans 23 square miles.
The lake has a red color which is caused by red sediments and algae that pigment the water. There are also some white patches on top of the lake, which is borax. It was very, very windy!
Day 2 Bolivia
World Cup Rock (Copa del Mundo) and an ancient cacti
The next day our first stop was to the World Cup Rock, which is found in the Valley of Rocks (Valle de las Rocas). It gets its name from resembling the FIFA World Cup trophy. Bolivians dubbed it “Copa del Mundo” during the Qatar 2022 World Cup.
Our guide let us walk around and explore a bit, with a little scrambling and walks to the top of formations. We even saw an ancient cushion plant called the llareta which is at least 670 years old.
Camel Rock (Piedra del Camello)
After exploring the formations in the Valley of Rocks, we went to another rock that looks like a camel. It was a short stop as we took some cute pictures and left.
Snake rock
Next up was an area called “Snake Rock” (not an official term), but it’s a short hike to an overlook where the rock formations loosely resemble a serpent. We walked over this serpent-like area and looked into the valley and it was pretty cool.
After this, we headed to a spot for lunch that our guide prepared for us.
Bolivian beers
Our next stop was a small place where we could try and buy different types of Bolivian beer, like quinoa, cactus, honey, and a few others. Huari seemed to be the most popular brand that bolivians like to drink. The music was loud, which made the stop feel a little more like a party than a tasting.
On the way there, we passed a lot of greenery and spotted llamas (or maybe alpacas?) grazing across the open landscape. From there, we stopped at an overlook to look at cacti before heading to where we would be spending the night.
Day 3 in Bolivia
Sunrise on the salt flat
Our final full day tour began with a 5am departure (and it was COLD) to the salt flats for sunrise. It took about an hour and a half to get to the area where we got out and took some photos. Our guide helped us with some fun and creative videos that played off the mirror effect of the water. To be able to see this mirror effect is why it’s important to consider traveling here during wet season, or at the very end of wet season.
Incahuasi Island (Isla de Incahuasi)
Next up was Incahuasi Island which is this surreal little “island” in the middle of the Uyuni Salt Flats, except it’s not surrounded by water. It’s surrounded by endless blinding-white salt. The island used to be underwater millions of years ago and is the remnant of the top of an ancient volcano. It’s now covered in giant cacti (some over 1,000 years old). It does feel like you’re on another planet.
After we arrived, our tour guide set up breakfast for us to snack on, and then we were off to purchase tickets to climb the island. It cost roughly 30 bolivianos (or $4-5), which includes use of the bathroom (which were much nicer than many other bathrooms we experienced in Bolivia). I was exhausted walking up the island due to the extreme altitude. I was really exhausted throughout the trek up to the top. It was really bright and sunny so I made sure to wear enough sunscreen. The views were spectacular at the top, and we even saw some stray cats hanging around.
If it’s wet on the salt flats around Incahuasi Island, it generally remains closed and therefore is not accessible during the wet season. Our guide let us know the reason for this is because to prevent damage to the vehicles, drivers must drive much more slowly through the wet salt flats, and it can take hours and hours to get there. Another reason to visit Uyuni at the start of dry season!
More salt flat photos
On the way to our next stop, we pulled over to take some of those fun salt flat photos that mess with perspective. The endless flat surface makes it possible to take those optical illusion shots where people look miniature or oversized depending on the angle (e.g., tiny people, giant props). The guide will provide all the instructions and props you need!
DAKAR Monument
Our next stop was at the site of the first salt hotel ever built on the Salar de Uyuni. It’s no longer operating as a hotel, but it’s been converted into a rest stop for tour groups. Tour guides sometimes serve lunch here, and there’s a small gift shop. The building itself is made almost entirely of salt blocks, including the tables and benches inside.
Right next to it is the DAKAR Rally monument, which is a large salt sculpture shaped like the Dakar Rally logo. The rally used to pass through this region, and this monument was built to mark its presence in Bolivia. It’s become one of those classic photo spots on the flats, especially with the Bolivian flags waving nearby.
Wrapping up the tour
We made it back to Uyuni and had a final last lunch before heading to our hotel for the night. From there we got some snacks, relaxed, explored the market that was open at the time, and went to bed early before our flight the next morning. We took an 8am flight from Uyuni to La Paz, and then La Paz to home.
A note about showers, water, and toilets
On our first night, running water was only available during a limited timeframe I think from 6 to 8 PM. The entire area shuts off water overnight to prevent the pipes from freezing, since temperatures drop well below freezing at high altitude. I didn’t realize this ahead of time and ended up going to bed without showering, completely confused about why the water wasn’t working.
Toilets also work a little differently. Similar to San Pedro de Atacama, you can’t flush toilet paper, so there’s usually a small trash bin nearby for disposal. In some bathrooms, instead of a flush system, you’ll find a large container of water with a scoop to pour it into the tank of the toilet manually to flush. Not all bathrooms have toilet paper or soap either, so it’s a good idea to bring portable hand sanitizer.
In general, restrooms on the Bolivian side of the tour were more rustic than what we had gotten used to in San Pedro de Atacama. It’s totally doable, but setting expectations early makes the experience smoother.
Food and Meals
Most of our meals were included as part of the tour and were usually a basic combo of beef and rice, with a few vegetables like tomatoes and peppers. Drinks were typically Coke or bottled water. At some stops, you’ll have the option to try llama meat, which is common to eat in the region.
Quinoa is a staple in Bolivia, and I really liked the quinoa soups we had throughout the trip. They were simple but tasty, warm, and comforting, especially at high altitudes.
We also LOVE salteñas. This is a popular Bolivian pastry that’s similar to an empanada but with a slightly sweet dough and a stew-like filling (usually beef, chicken, or vegetables). They’re usually eaten in the morning or early afternoon (make sure you have napkins available when you eat these). If you want to get this at the airport, you can find it in the upstairs dining area of the La Paz airport!
In general, there won’t be many places to purchase snacks throughout the tour, so if you like having snacks around, it might be worth stocking up in Chile before crossing the border.
A note on life in Bolivia
While we were focused on the beauty and unique experiences throughout the tour, after chatting with our guide and seeing the town of Uyuni, it was also clear that life in Bolivia can be incredibly challenging. Our guide mentioned that he often has to sleep in their car to make sure it’s not broken into, and also to wait in line for gas. Fuel shortages and limited infrastructure make life in the region a lot harder than what travelers like us and many others are used to. It wasn’t lost on us that our tour guide worked extremely hard for his family and to provide us the experience we were looking for. So make sure to tip your guides!
