Argentina has always been on my list of places to visit. In 2018 spent 11 days visiting both the Cafayate region and Buenos Aires (with a bonus half day visit to Colonia, Uruguay).
While I knew I wanted to visit Buenos Aires, I couldn’t decide between visiting Mendoza and Cafayate (two popular wine regions).
Deciding between Cafayate and Mendoza
Mendoza is Argentina’s wine capital, located in the foothills of the Andes. It’s best known for Malbec and vineyards that visitors can tour by car, bike, or even horseback. It has a city population of around 115,000 and a metropolitan region of about 2 million.
Cafayate on the other hand is a small town in Argentina’s northwest, known for its high-altitude wineries and stunning landscapes. It’s famous for Torrontés, a crisp white wine unique to the region. It is much lesser known than Mendoza and has a population of about 12,000.
To visit Cafayate, you’d fly into the Salta Airport and then drive about 3 hours. Since Cafayate seemed like an interesting challenge to get to, was more intimate in terms of population, and still had wonderful wine and wonderful and diverse landscapes and views, Cafayate won out in my book.
Flight to Salta
A flight from New York to Salta took about 20 hours (including layovers). The flight consisted of a leg from JFK to Panama City, then Panama City to Lima, and then a flight from Lima to Salta. We arrived in Salta at 4:50 am and waited until the car rental desk opened to pick up our rental car.
Renting a car for Cafayate
Looking online, most cars offered at the Salta Airport were manual transmission, which I do not know how to drive. I luckily did find a car with automatic transmission that I was able to reserve. The rental car companies were few and far between at the Salta airport.
We used Localiza Hertz to rent a Chevy Cobalt. They opened at 7:30 am.
Looking back though, I would have chosen a car with higher ground clearance since we chose to drive the rockier route. I had no idea how rocky that drive would be.
Driving to Cafayate
There are two main routes to reach Cafayate from the Salta airport. The first is a fully paved road, taking about 3 hours to drive directly from the airport. We opted not to start with this route and instead chose a more scenic, though unpaved and rocky, path that takes closer to 7 hours. The road was so rough that we could hear rocks hitting the underside of our car in many areas. Not ideal for the car, but I tried to be careful.
While taking the scenic route, we drove to the city of Cachi for lunch. The scenery was out-of-this-world. This took us about 3 hours from the Salta airport. In Cachi, I would recommend trying any empanadas, locro, or tamales, or pick up spices in the main plaza.
Plan to fill up on gas (or diesel) in Cachi. Gas stations are also present in Salta, Cafayate, and El Caril. While it’s not common for US cars to take diesel, some cars in Argentina still do take diesel so it would be good to check. There are no gas stations between Cachi and Cafayate. There are several gas stations IN Cafayate and Cachi.
We drove another 3.5 hours (also gorgeous) to get to our hotel (Grace Cafayate Hotel). I was exhausted after having landed at the airport at 5 in the morning, but we made it to the hotel!
Photos don’t do the scenery any justice. The views are so grand and incredible. Hopefully some of the images below can show the types of landscapes we saw, but you really have to see it in person!
Exploring wineries in Cafayate
Some wineries will require reservations for wine tastings and/or tours – so check before visiting.
These are the wineries we visited:
- El Porvenir de Cafayate
- Bodega Piatelli
- Bodega El Esteco
- Bad Brothers Wine Experience
Other things to do besides Cafayate wineries
- Cooking classes
- Municipal Handmade Market: Located on the main plaza, this market showcases the work of 120 local artisans, including handmade ceramics and textiles like bedspreads, tapestries, and blankets. According to the market’s treasurer, many pieces are created using a four-pedal technique, taking up to three months to complete. Recommended artisans include Marino Tolaba, who uses natural plant dyes to treat sheep wool, and Don Alvaro Cutipa, known for his intricate plates and vases that have gained international recognition
- Relax at one of the many restaurants or cafés around the plaza or on a quiet side street
Garganta del Diablo and Purmamarca
On our way back to Salta, we took the paved route. After an early check-out from our hotel, we drove through Garganta del Diablo to admire the stunning geological formations of Quebrada de las Conchas (Quebrada de Cafayate).
We followed National Road 68 north of Cafayate to explore the stunning geological landmarks along the 50 km stretch of the Quebrada, including the impressive Garganta del Diablo canyon and ancient rock formations shaped by erosion over two million years ago.
We stayed the night in a town called Purmamarca at a place called Casa de Adobe Hotel Spa.
Salinas Grandes
The next morning, we drove to Salinas Grandes before heading to Salta, where we stayed for the next two nights. Salinas Grandes, Argentina’s largest salt flats, span an impressive 8,920 km². They were formed over time as rainwater carried salt down from the surrounding mountains into this flat basin, where it eventually evaporated, leaving the salt behind. The drive to the salt flats offers stunning scenery.
Make sure to put on sunscreen and bring your sunglasses! It is bright.
Exploring Buenos Aires
We then flew from Salta to Buenos Aires where we spent 4 days. Below are some ideas of things to do (we didn’t make it to all of these, but a number of them)
Walking around the Palermo neighborhood
- Palermo Soho: Historic streets lined with boutiques, nightlife, and dining
- Alto Palermo: A shopping hub with a mix of local and international brands.
- Plaza Serrano (Plazoleta Julio Cortázar) for bars, restaurants, and nightlife
- Paseo del Rosedal: A rose garden located in the Palermo neighborhood
Recoleta Neighborhood
- Recoleta Cemetery is known for its elaborate mausoleums and statues. It houses the graves of notable figures like Eva Perón
- Basilica de Nuestra Señora Del Pilar: A small, historical church near the cemetery
- Plaza Francia: A green public space and historic plaza near Recoleta Cemetery that sometimes also hosts craft fairs
- Floralis Generica is a giant, metallic flower sculpture that opens and closes with the sun
Historic and Neighborhood Spots
- El Zanjón de Granados: A historic home and mansion built over tunnels, revealing layers of the city’s history through a maze of underground tunnels and artifacts
- La Boca: A colorful neighborhood famous for tango culture and El Caminito (a colorful street filled with vibrant houses made from industrial materials)
- Cafe Tortoni is the oldest cafe in Argentina
- Puerto Madero is a riverfront area where during the day is a quiet business district and by night is a hip neighborhood with restaurants and clubs
Additional Activities
- Gaucho Day Trip: We booked a day trip to Don Silvano Ranch. A gaucho is an Argentinian cowboy, known for their skilled horsemanship, traditional attire, and connection to rural life. A day trip to Don Silvano Ranch offers a glimpse into gaucho culture, including horseback riding, folklore music, and traditional asado (barbecue). Visitors can enjoy demonstrations of gaucho skills and explore the vast pampas landscape. While it was a fun time, it was still a bit cheesier than I was expecting.
- Corrientes Avenue: Tango dancers have congregated here since the 1930s. You can also find theaters, bookstores, as well as cafes and restaurants. You can also find the iconic Obelisk here at one end of the avenue.
- A Free Walking Tour – check out BA Free Tour – but make sure to tip the guides since the tour itself is free
- Day Trip to Colonia, Uruguay: A ferry ride away, historic Colonia offers a charming, historic town with cobblestone streets and colonial architecture – we did this and it was fun to explore a half day in a different country!
- Museum of Latin American Art (MALBA): a not-for-profit art museum, hosting contemporary Latin American art
- The National Museum of Fine Arts: A museum with a collection of European and Latin American art. Entry is free for most exhibits
- Teatro Colón: A historic opera house that National Geographic considers one of the top 10 in the world (tours available)
Puertas Cerradas as a dinner experience
Puertas cerradas (meaning “closed doors” in Spanish) are private, reservation-only dining experiences often held in chefs’ homes or small, hidden venues. These often offer multi-course meals, usually with a set menu that changes regularly. The exact location is usually shared only after booking
Casa SaltShaker was one of these puertas cerradas that we made a reservation with, run by an American chef and partner in their private home. At Casa SaltShaker, guests are served a five-course meal. The cost per person includes a welcome cocktail, five courses, mineral water, five paired wines, and coffee or tea afterwards. The setting is cozy with only a maximum of 10 guests.
Reservations are required, and the exact location is shared only after booking. It’s a great way to experience creative cuisine and meet fellow travelers or locals in an informal, communal environment.
You can make reservations through their website to schedule a dinner. Dress is casual, and guests are asked to arrive between 8:45 and 9pm to make sure everyone can start dining on time.
Overall Itinerary
| Day | What |
| 1 | Depart for Argentina |
| 2 | – Arrive in Salta 4:50 am and pick up rental car at 7:30 am – Drive the longer, more scenic routeStart by heading to Cachi for lunch (and get gas) – about 3 hours – Drive to Cafayate – another 3.5 hours and relax |
| 3 | Relax and explore wineries in Cafayate |
| 4 | – Check out of hotel and early morning – drive through Garganta del Diablo to explore geologic formations (Quebrada de las Conchas) – Take National Road 68 north of Cafayate to explore the stunning geological landmarks along the 50 km stretch of the Quebrada, including the impressive Garganta del Diablo canyon and ancient rock formations shaped by erosion over two million years ago – Stay the night in Purmamarca |
| 5 | Check out from hotel and drive to Salinas Grandes Stay in Salta for the night |
| 6 | Relax and explore Salta |
| 7 | Depart for Buenos Aires |
| 8 | Gaucho Day Trip from Buenos Aires |
| 9 | Explore Buenos AiresPuerta Cerrada dinner with Casa SaltShaker |
| 10 | Explore Buenos AiresSteakhouse dinner at Parrilla Don Julio |
| 11 | Depart Buenos Aires to travel home |
If you like traveling to Latin America and gorgeous scenery similar to the trek from Cafayate, I would consider also a trip to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. Or, if you’re into ruggedness and hard-to-get to locations, I would also recommend La Guajira in Colombia. In the United States, Big Bend National Park also offers incredible sweeping views.
