"It's ludicrous that this place exists and everybody doesn't want to live here." - Anthony Bourdain on Colombia
The itinerary below is what I took in August of 2018 to visit Jardín, Medellín, Guatape, and Caño Cristales.
Like I mentioned in my first Colombia itinerary post, every time I visited Colombia, without fail- I would have a handful of names of more locations to go back to see. Locals would rattle off so many recommendations that after googling seemed out of this world. When I saw this colorful river existed, I had to plan a trip around it.
About Caño Cristales
Caño Cristales is a river in Colombia known for its unique and vivid, rainbow-like colors, giving it the nickname: “the river of five colors”.
It is located inside the National Natural Park Serranía de la Macarena. The river is given its “river of five colors” name due to its multicolored appearance. This is due to an aquatic plant called Macarenia Clavigera. The color of this plant changes according to its exposure to the sun. The five colors of this plant can be green, pink, red, purple, and brown. These plants only grow during the rainy season, which is from June to November. We took this trip in August, and it was HOT and also a bit rainy/cloudy so we only got pockets of sun to see the gorgeous colors – but it was still really cool to see.
Note that you are not allowed to bring sunscreen or plastic bottles with you, so you have to cover up for sun protection. When arriving in La Macarena, they will search your luggage for it and confiscate it if found. This strict rule is to protect the algae if you were to go in the river for a swim.
As far as getting there, this river is not easy to get to. Most flights depart from Bogota, but our tour agency arranged a super small flight from Medellín to the village of La Macarena. When we arrived, a donkey transported our luggage to us!
About Jardín
Jardín is a colorful and traditional town nestled in the rolling hills of the Colombian coffee district. It’s a 3-hour bus ride from Medellín. It’s quaint, colorful, and much less touristy than Salento or Guatape.
About Guatape
Guatape is arguably one of the most colorful towns in Colombia and is only a short bus ride from Medellín. The lake is a large, man-made reservoir built for hydroelectric power generation in the late 20th century. To save time and research, we booked a tour, but it is easy enough to get there on your own via bus from Medellín. It’s a popular destination, so you will encounter many tourists, but it is still gorgeous to see. A day trip is enough. We did a boat tour of the lake (you’ll pass by one of Pablo Escobar’s abandoned mansions) and climbed El Peñol Rock, which is about 700 steps up to a spectacular view.
Itinerary
This itinerary is pretty much verbatim the itinerary used (I kept in all the random notes and reminders). It includes a one night stay in the magical town of Jardín, and then a 4-day tour to Caño Cristales (booked via Viator), and time to relax and explore Medellín. A trip to Caño Cristales is also by no means a “luxury” trip as it is a remote area accessible mainly only by a small plane. Visitors navigate the river in a canoe, and there is lots of walking and hiking up and around the river.
Schedule:
- Medellín (1 night)
- Jardín (1 night)
- Medellín (1 night)
- Caño Cristales (3 nights)
- Medellín (4 nights)
Reminder that this information is from 2018, so please double-check notes and prices.
DAY 1: Arrive Medellín
Get Cash at ATM Medellin airport
HOTEL: Hotel Santiago de Arma
Glorieta Aeropuerto Jose Maria Cordoba, Rionegro, 054047, Colombia
Night 1 was to stay close to the airport so we could depart early the next day for Jardín.
DAY 2: Travel from Medellín to Jardín
HOTEL: Hospedaje Rural La Boira in Jardín – CASH only payment $63 USD
Travel: 3.5-4 hours from Medellin via bus:
* Transportes Suroeste Antioqueño (booth 2, six buses daily)
* Rapido Ochoa (booth 34 or 38) ~$25,000
* Colectivo option
* Also look into buses or colectivos from Medellin to Jerico, with a relative short connecting bus to Jardin
Description: “Jardín is one of the most well-kept colonial towns in Colombia. Most noteworthy, it’s virtually unchanged architecturally for the last 140 years. This quaint pueblo of less than 20,000 people is bursting with vibrantly colored houses which pop-out against the surrounding green of the banana-leaf and ceiba tree-covered mountains.” (source)
Activity Options:
Horseback Ride to Surrounding Waterfalls
“A horseback ride through the countryside. You can see one of the many waterfalls in the area including the Cascada Del Amor (Waterfall of Love). Several operators around town offer the trek, so just ask around. The cost is around 60,000 COP for a three-hour trek. For a shorter journey, you can easily take a quick trot around the main square. A 10-minute trip is around 5,000 COP.” (source)
We ended up doing the horseback ride and it was so worth it! You climb through the mountainside, with gorgeous views of the scenery and coffee farms, take pictures by a waterfall, eat lunch, and even some dancing. The guide even instructed me on how to pose in front of the waterfall which was hilarious and very awkward. This horseback tour was booked through our bed and breakfast accommodation.
We also visited a Panela baking factory. Panela is a traditional raw, unrefined, cane sugar consumed throughout Latin America. Often made by hand.
Visit Dulces de Jardin
“Founded in 1995 by Mariela Arango Jaramillo, a Jardin native, this was a labour of love by a woman who wanted to create jellies, jams and sweets for her family and friends. And now it’s an excellent spot to get a sugar high and a bunch of cavities.” (source)
Travel Across the Gorge in a Makeshift Cable Car
“There are two sets of cable-cars in town. For the adventurous, head to the older and cheaper Estacion Garrucha. This mode of public transportation is affectionately described as a metal garden shed that pulls you 1,850 meters up to the hill by some tenuously held cable wires. This four-seater box rattles its way past banana plants before crossing a deep river gorge. Not for the faint-hearted. Originally installed to provide farmers and locals a quicker and easier way into town, it has become a tourist sightseeing ride.The round-trip costs around 6,000 COP and takes around 3 minutes each way. At the top, there is a perfectly situated small bar where you can purchase a cold cerveza (beer) and take in the views of the red-roofed city below. However reportedly the newer cable car is recently closed but the cheaper La Garrucha cable car is open.” (source)
People Watch in Parque el Libertador
“By far, one of the best things to do in Jardín is just hang around the main plaza and people watch. Parque el Libertador evokes classical colonial city planning with a large church fronting the plaza and the perimeter lined with two-story hotels, cafes and bars.” (source)
Marvel at the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception’s Architecture
“The twin towers of the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception provide a dominating landmark in Jardín. The church was built between 1918 and 1942. Parishioners brought hand carved stones from a quarry as penance for their sins. The half-Gothic style has an even more impressive turquoise tiled interior.” (source)
Watch the Gauchos Prance on Their Paso Finos
“If you are lucky enough to be in Jardín on a Friday or Saturday night, then you are in for a rural treat. As the sun fades, you’ll start to hear the the dancing of horse hooves on the closed off cobbled streets. Turn around in your wooden chair. And you’ll see the gauchos donned in their best checked shirts and crumpled cowboy hats prancing their prized Paso Finos (meaning fine step) around the square.”
Paso Finos are a unique South American purebred that is known for their smooth trotting gait that in showmanship mode has the horse’s legs moving in a rapid, piston-like action. Men, women and children all strut their stuff by trotting their mares up and down the streets in the most captivating clickity-clack and clop-clop-clop. It’s a festive atmosphere not to be missed.” (source)
Take a Tuk-Tuk Tour
“If you’re only in town for a very short period of time, but are keen to see as much of the area as possible, consider taking a tour in one of the many tuk-tuk mototaxis that nip about town. A standard trip will cover all corners of the pueblo, and a side-trip to a famous trout farm about 15 minutes outside of town, via some spectacular scenery. For a two hour tour, the price should be around $20,000 COP.” (source)
DAY 3: Jardín and head back to Medellín
HOTEL: Art Hotel Boutique – Classic Double Room (1 double bed)
Where to Eat in Jardín
“For a small town, Jardín has a surprisingly large amount of both traditional and Western style restaurants and coffee shops. You can find everything from Italian pizza (Cafe Europa – #1 resto on Trip Advisor) to fried local trout to the traditional platter of Bandeja Paisa. On Saturday night, the square bustles with street food vendors where you can pick up a cheap meal of empanadas, buñuelos, arepas and papas rellenas, an irresistible deep-fried potato ball stuffed with savory meat and spices.
For Sunday brunch, head to Cafe de los Andes located on the corner of Calle 10 and Carrera 5 at the main plaza. This second story establishment offers an open terrace with views over the square where you can indulge in locally-grown coffee and a ham and cheese bagel.
For that afternoon coffee pick-me-up and a slice of carrot cake, Cafe Mancanas on the square is not to be missed. Located on Carrera 5 halfway between Calle 9 and Calle 10, it is also a great spot to people watch.” (source)
Bus back to Medellin whenever
DAY 4: Caño Cristales Tour Day 1
Viator Cano Cristales Tour – 4 days
Bring enough cash – no ATMs
River Hike/Tour (from email):
- Bring hiking shoes and an additional pair to keep clean and dry.
- The chances of rain are high so bring a rain jacket.
- Plastic bottles are banned in Caño Cristales, so please bring a canteen.
- Long sleeve shirt and large sweatpants.If possible, try to avoid jeans. Also, don’t forget your cap.
- In Caño Cristales it is forbidden to use sunscreen and mosquito repellent
- Bring a towel and of course, your swimsuit.
- It would help to have a small backpack for the daily hikes
“Get up at first light, have breakfast and meet our driver at the lobby of your Medellin hotel in order to reach the airport by 7am. We will fly for about 2 hours to La Macarena, a village located in the southern region of Colombia that once was unthinkable to visit due the internal conflict, but now has become an important tourism hub. La Macarena is a good example of social empowerment from a community that has managed to work together to preserve and benefit from one of the natural treasures located just a few miles from town: Caño Cristales. After being collected at the airport, you will be taken to Casa Hotel, a clean and basic accommodation with smiling staff and comfortable rooms. Put your hiking shoes on because the action starts from now. After you settle in, our local guide will pick you up and you will travel by boat for 25 minutes up the Guayabero river. After that, we will walk for about a hour and reach Caño Cristalitos, an amazing natural spa with small ponds filled with the characteristic algae that gives this river its rainbow-like look. After having a box lunch by the river, visit “El Mirador,” a point where we will enjoy of an amazing view of the wild savanna bordered by the Macarena Mountain Range. In the afternoon we will get back to the hotel and have dinner at La Macarena restaurant”
DAY 5: Caño Cristales – Tour Day 2
“Visit the main sector of Caño Cristales river. After having breakfast at the hotel, our guide will pick you up. You’ll travel for one hour by boat and jeep to the starting point of the 30-minute hike that will take us to Caño Cristales. Once we reach the river, we will visit many different spots, we will have the chance to swim and relax at the colorful, Willy-Wonka-like, ponds and enjoy lunch at the site. In the afternoon, you’ll have time to rest at the hotel before a dinner event where you can enjoy a “ternera a la llanera” a typical beef preparation of the Colombian flat lands.“
DAY 6: Caño Cristales – Tour Day 3
“Visit Los Pilones to enjoy a scenic hike through a canyon with lush green vegetation. A true delight for outdoor lovers. At the end of the hike, you’ll also get to visit a new section of the river. Upon returning to the village, stop by some souvenir shops that offer authentic handicrafts from the region.“
DAY 7: Caño Cristales – Tour Day 4
Depart Macarena back to Medellin
“On the last day, visit the remaining highlight of the area, Caño Piedra, a section of the river with deep stone pools bordered by the amazing savanna landscape and the Macarena Mountain range in the distance. You’ll be back at the village for lunchtime, and in the afternoon head back to Medellin. Upon arrival, a driver will collect you from the airport and take you to your Medellin hotel. “
MEDELLIN HOTEL: Hotel Estelar Blue
DAY 8: Medellín
HOTEL: Hotel Estelar Blue
Real City Tours walking tour – website
Opens 1.5 days prior; tip-based fee; 3.5-4 hours; good to get this as a baseline intro to Medellin
DINNER: El Cielo — make a reservation; a 15-course molecular gastronomy experience
Other ideas:
* Fruit tour – Minorista Market (Mon-Sat at 9:45)
* Metro Cable Car – Acevedo Station
* Casa de la Memoria – museum about Colombia’s difficult past
* Museo de Antioquia and plaza Botanical garden
Medellin bars:
* Poblado – Parque Lleras
* Dulce Jesus Mio – a quirky dance and music show
Pergamino Cafe is probably the best known independent coffee shop in Medellin
Laureles: Café Cliché (french-owned)
DAY 9: Day trip to Guatape
HOTEL: Hotel Estelar Blue
Day trip to Guatape via a tour to save on time/research (Meet at 730 am; return between 6-7pm; Entrance to climb to the Piedra Peñon is not included $18.000 COP)1.5-2 hours from Medellin
About Guatape
Colors of Guatape – photos
If without a tour: Buses leave Medellin very regularly from Terminal del Norte, take 1.5 to 2 hours and cost around 13,500 COP. They return as frequently, making a day trip here relatively simple.
DAY 10: Medellín
Additional exploration — walking tours and the museums listed above
DAY 11: Depart
General Notes
- Uber is available in the major cities like Medellin, but illegal. So to avoid policing of Ubers, passengers must sit in the front seat to make it seem more like it is not an Uber
- Weather in August
- Medellin: 81/63 degrees (15 days of rain in the month)
- Guatape: 75/56 degrees (~14 days of rain)
- Cano Cristales: 83/70
